The Long and Winding Road (8/15)

While Anne and Rick luxuriated in the comfort of their Camp Kipwe cottage, Dan and Nancy took an early morning stroll to check out the birdies. Of course, there was no need to go very far, because scores of love birds (look like parrots, taste like guinea pig) and glossy blue starlings frequented the tree hanging over the dining room. We felt great sympathy with the two lovebirds necking as their embarrassed offspring acted goofy on the same branch.

Sadly, we said our goodbyes to the lovely Camp Kipwe, and asked directions to our next destination, the Grootberg Lodge. The car attendants who so kindly washed our Jeep, looked confused until we pointed at the name in our itinerary, to which they responded, “Oh, you mean Chrutbayerrch,” clearing their throat as they enunciated the c-h as in Chai and Chanukah.

Our drive was uneventful, and, two hours later, we arrived at lower-level entrance to the lodge. Our itinerary suggested we leave the car with the attendant and have the lodge transport us up the hill, but Lieutenant Dan insisted that we take the hill, over spousal protests. The attendant recommended popping into 4WD and 4^th gear, which only took about 10 minutes to figure out. For the next 15 minutes, Anne, Nancy, and Rick closed their eyes and bit their lips as Dan handled the “little engine (and transmission) that should” up the steep hill, and carefully past rocks and a family of baboons (no, not the Jacobson-Kolskys) until we reached the lodge, with its magnificent vista, overlooking a 35km plateau-ringed valley.

We checked in, rested, and then headed out on a late afternoon hike with Hambo, whose name is Damara for “farm,” which triggered an enlightening 20 minute discussion of English names based on professions—Baker, Miller, Banks, Forrester, and Ambulancechaser. Our part-time goat-herder guide enlightened us with information about the flora--thorny Kudu’s bush and therapeutic Mopani trees, whose leaves are used to treat wounds. Dan added the word “coagulation” to Hambo’s limited English vocabulary and even spelled it out in the sand.

We learned about his 70 year-old uncle with 14 wives, including a 14 year-old, and wondered a special place in his heart for Valentine’s Day. As we reached the edge of the river valley, we encountered large herds of

springbok, oryx, and Hartman’s zebra,

whose colors glowed in the setting sun, framed by the surrounding hillsides, before heading back to camp for dinner.